Speaking of settings, the Tiertime Cetus 3D printer allows custom material profiles to be created for third-party filaments for the Windows version of its software. The printer supports slicing softwares Simplif圓d, Slic3r, Cura, Octoprint and others since Tiertime lets users modify the Tiertime Cetus into a complete open-source 3D printer. The company warns that modifications and add-ons like the heated bed and automatic leveling probe won’t be compatible with the printer, so adjustments will have to be made. Adding the Cetus MK3 Extension board will support the proprietary enhancements. One upgrade included in both versions of the printer is the ability for untethered printing. Sending jobs to the printer wirelessly or through the USB cable give it a wider range of functionality. When it comes to looks, again, simplicity is the goal with its sturdy aluminum extrusions. There are some 3D printed parts and the printer is boasted to be mod-friendly. The Tiertime Cetus extended version is the same size as the standard MK3 in length and width, but the height is significantly different at 16.8 inches in comparison to the standard’s 10.75 inches. This explains the difference in the build space too where the extended version tops out at 11 inches as opposed to the standard’s 7 inches. The build area has a special coating applied to the build plate for better adhesion and easy print removal. The build plate has to be leveled manually and does not come heated. Leveling can be done with a 9-point matrix and assisted with the included bundled Up Studio software. Once the bed is leveled, printing can begin. While the print bed allows for good adhesion, there are some issues with layer adhesion. These can be tackled by switching to the fine setting instead of the normal and slowing down the build speed to minimize artifacts and increase the finished build quality. 20 mm hot end, the details and accuracy will increase dramatically. Switching between hot ends is easy enough and can be done within minutes. Simply move through the software’s settings and withdraw any filament feeding the extruder, use the wrench and turn counter-clockwise to remove the hot end, install the new one and recalibrate the print height.Įach hot end has its strengths and weaknesses but lets users adjust the layer height to achieve specific results. You’ll get better prints with a slower build speed around 40 mm per second and by keeping the layer height on the lower end of the hot end’s spectrum. However, there may be some stringing or wisping with the thinner layer heights. 60 mm hot end will spit out builds in nearly half the time at.
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